Historic French Lick Springs Hotel Walking Tour

✘ French Lick, Indiana • August 22, 2024

⌖ Rivalry, Restoration, and the Legacy of Mineral Springs

① French Lick Springs Hotel

Our journey through the French Lick Springs Hotel began with the expert guidance of Stephanie from Indiana Landmarks, who introduced us to the deep and intricate history of this iconic establishment. Founded in 1845, the French Lick Springs Hotel started as a modest retreat, yet it has since evolved into a grand symbol of resilience and luxury. While the original structure has been replaced over time, the hotel’s legacy as the longest continuously operating hotel in Indiana remains intact.

A Rivalry Begins: French Lick vs. West Baden

As we traversed the historic corridors of the French Lick Springs Hotel, Stephanie recounted the captivating story of the fierce rivalry between this hotel and its nearby competitor, the West Baden Springs Hotel. This rivalry was not merely a competition between two businesses; it was a decades-long saga that significantly influenced the evolution of both establishments, ultimately shaping their legacy in American hospitality.

The Controversial Dr. William Bowles

Our tour then brought us to one of the hotel’s most historically significant spaces, where Stephanie shared the story of Dr. William Bowles, a figure whose legacy is marked by both influence and controversy. Bowles first rose to prominence during the Westward Expansion, leading volunteers in a brave but ultimately unsuccessful campaign against General Santa Anna’s seasoned troops. His military career took a darker turn during the Civil War when he aligned with Jefferson Davis and the Confederacy, leading to his arrest and trial for treason. Facing execution, Bowles mounted a bold defense, arguing that the military lacked the authority to try a civilian without martial law. His sentence was commuted just days before his scheduled execution, highlighting the complexities of his character—a man shaped by the turbulent times in which he lived.

Tom Taggart’s Vision: Revitalizing French Lick

From this historic space, we stepped out onto the front veranda of the hotel, where our guide elaborated on the rivalry between French Lick and West Baden as it extended into the 20th century. In 1901, Tom Taggart, a three-term mayor of Indianapolis, purchased the French Lick Springs Hotel and immediately set out to enhance its reputation. Recognizing the potential of the region’s mineral springs, Taggart trademarked Pluto Water, the hotel’s renowned mineral water, and leveraged the newly extended railroad to bring guests directly to the hotel’s doorstep. By 1919, the hotel was generating millions of dollars annually from Pluto Water sales alone.

Innovations in Hospitality

Now returning inside, Stephanie led us through the elegant lobby, where she recounted the pivotal role played by the Cook Group in the early 2000s. Their extensive renovation efforts were crucial in saving the hotel from falling into disrepair. With meticulous attention to detail, the Cook Group sought to preserve as much of the original architecture and design as possible, carefully replicating intricate tile patterns and stenciling that adorned the walls. Their dedication to maintaining the historic charm of the French Lick Springs Hotel, while thoughtfully updating it for modern guests, ensured that this iconic destination would continue to be cherished for generations to come.

Taggart’s Forward-Thinking Innovations

We then proceeded down a grand hallway to the dining area, where Stephanie highlighted some of Tom Taggart’s visionary innovations. Among these were the introduction of an outdoor swimming pool and a luxurious spa—facilities that were remarkably advanced for their time. These additions further solidified French Lick as a premier health resort, attracting visitors from across the country who sought not only the therapeutic benefits of the mineral springs but also the upscale experience that Taggart had so meticulously crafted.

The 1875 Steakhouse: A Dining Tradition

As we admired the dining area, now home to the 1875 Steakhouse, the guide explained that this space originally served as the hotel’s main dining room and has retained much of its original grandeur. The 1875 Steakhouse, named in honor of the first Kentucky Derby, continues the tradition of fine dining that has been a hallmark of the French Lick Springs Hotel for over a century.

Architectural Evolution

We continued our journey through the hotel’s interior, eventually arriving at one of the back exits that led us outside to view the expansions made over the years. As we grouped together in the courtyard, Stephanie pointed out the various architectural features that had been added over time. Each section of the hotel narrated a chapter of its evolution, showcasing how it adapted to the changing tastes and needs of its guests. From the original 1897 structure to the significant additions in 1917, these expansions allowed the hotel to accommodate an ever-growing number of visitors while preserving its historic character.

The Hidden Tunnels

Returning inside, the tour concluded with a fascinating exploration of the tunnels beneath the hotel. Originally constructed to allow staff to move discreetly without disturbing guests, these tunnels are now open to the public. They offer a unique glimpse into the behind-the-scenes workings of the hotel, revealing the meticulous care and effort that went into its operation. The tunnels also underscore the lengths to which the Cook Group went during their restoration, preserving even the hidden aspects of the property to ensure that every element of the hotel’s history was maintained and honored.

A Living Testament to History

Reflecting on the tour, it becomes evident that the French Lick Springs Hotel is much more than just another entry on the register of historic places; it stands as a living testament to the ingenuity and perseverance of those who have built and preserved it over the centuries. From its beginnings as a health resort to its current status as a luxury destination, the hotel has continually evolved, all while remaining true to its rich and storied past.

☑ Who Is This Tour Best For?

• History Enthusiasts: Civil War intrigue and hospitality rivalry.
• Architecture Admirers: Grand corridors, dining halls, and expansions.
• Spa and Wellness Fans: Origins of mineral springs luxury culture.
• Cultural Explorers: Stories of Tom Taggart and Pluto Water.
• Curious Travelers: Rare chance to see hidden tunnels and restored detail.

⊞ Tour Summary

• Tour Name: Guided Historic Walking Tour of the French Lick Springs Hotel
• Offered By: Indiana Landmarks
• Total Duration: ~1.5 hours
• Main Stops: Historic corridors, veranda, lobby, dining area, courtyard expansions, hidden tunnels

▣ Activity Summary

• Walking Distance: 2,500 steps
• Terrain: Indoors, flat with some outdoor courtyard walking
• Accessibility: Mostly accessible; tunnels may have uneven flooring
• Meals Included: None included

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