Discovering Bardstown Kentucky with a Night at the Jailers Inn

✘ Bardstown, Kentucky • July 28, 2024

⌖ Jailhouse History and Kentucky Heritage

① Jailer’s Inn Bed and Breakfast

Address: 111 W. Stephen Foster Ave, Bardstown, KY 40004
Time Spent: Approx. 1 day

The Worthington Estate

Nestled in the heart of Bardstown, Kentucky, the Jailer’s Inn Bed and Breakfast offered us a unique blend of history and intrigue. As we approached the imposing limestone structure, its grandeur immediately struck us—a testament to the countless stories held within its walls. These stories began unfolding as early as 1819 when the front part of the building first served as the Old Nelson County Jail, constructed at a cost of $7,480.83 by John Bowling, a distant relative of the current proprietors. Designed with intricate trim work by the famous American architect John Rogers, this portion of the jail has stood for over two centuries, witnessing the evolution of Bardstown and its community. As the needs of the county grew, various additions were made to the structure over time, expanding it into the full complex it is today.

The Old Nelson County Jail, now operating as the Jailer’s Inn Bed and Breakfast, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, a testament to its historical significance and enduring legacy. Visitors can tour the jail, exploring the original cells and other parts of the building, while enjoying modern accommodation in what was once the home to prisoners.

Our arrival was greeted with a sense of wonder. Paul McCoy, the innkeeper since 1987, welcomed us warmly into this historic site. The Jailer’s Inn, with its thick, 30-inch limestone walls and barred windows, immediately conveyed the gravity of its original purpose. We were about to step into a world where past and present coexist, where history is not just remembered but felt in every creak of the floorboards and every whisper of the wind through the old corridors.

The Library Room: A Portal to the 19th Century

Checking in, we were handed the skeleton key to the Library Room, a space that promised both comfort and a tangible connection to the past. As we stepped into the room, we were surrounded by the presence of history. The furniture was strewn with old books, their covers worn but still vibrant with the bright colors that hinted at the arsenic-based pigments used in the 19th century. Among these treasures, we discovered an 1858 edition of Portraits of My Married Friends, a book that added an air of authenticity and intrigue to our stay. A small window in the room overlooked the slab of the adjoining jail, letting in just enough light to remind us of the building’s stark past. The room also featured a well-appointed bathroom with a shower and tub, blending modern amenities with the room’s historical character.

② Dinner at Talbott Tavern

Address: 107 W. Stephen Foster Ave, Bardstown, KY 40004
Time Spent: 45 minutes

After settling in, we ventured next door to the historic Talbott Tavern for dinner, where we indulged in the infamous Kentucky Hot Brown. This establishment, dating back to 1779, is one of the oldest in Kentucky and has hosted famous figures like Daniel Boone and Abraham Lincoln. The night ended with us attending The Stephen Foster Story, the primary reason for our visit to Bardstown.

Morning Reflections and a Jail Tour

The next morning, we awoke to the soft light of dawn filtering through the window of the Library Room. After a night filled with the echoes of history, we made our way to the courtyard outside the jail walls for breakfast. The courtyard, situated on the back property, provided a peaceful contrast to the grim history we had stepped into just last evening. Paul and Kim McCoy served us and the other guests a hearty meal, aptly named “Jailhouse Rock,” while engaging us in light conversation. As we sipped our coffee and enjoyed our breakfast, we reflected on the layers of history we had uncovered and the stories that had come to life during our stay.

With our curiosity piqued, we took a tour of the old jail, eager to uncover the stories etched into its walls. We started in the main corridor, where informational markers and historical papers provided insight into the lives of those who had passed through the jail’s doors. The thick stone walls, still retaining their heavy iron bars, evoked the somber atmosphere that must have pervaded this place when it was an active jail.

The Legacy of Captain A.D. Pence and the James Brothers

The jail’s history is deeply enriched by the story of Captain A.D. Pence, a prominent figure who served under Quantrill’s Raiders during the Civil War and later became a respected law enforcement officer in Nelson County. His connection to the infamous outlaws Jesse and Frank James, forged during the war, continued throughout his life, adding intrigue to the jail’s past. Historical articles in the jail reveal how the James brothers, notorious for their exploits in the American West, frequently visited Bardstown, not as prisoners but as guests seeking refuge. It was fascinating to imagine that two of America’s most wanted men found sanctuary within these very walls, a place steeped in Kentucky’s complex and turbulent history.

One cell on our tour stood out, capturing both our attention and imagination. This space, available as a unique bed-and-breakfast experience, invites guests to stay in an actual Jail Cell. The small, stark room, enclosed by cold stone walls, starkly contrasts with the modern comforts just beyond its door. Looking inside, you can almost feel the despair and isolation that once pervaded this confined space, offering a haunting glimpse into the lives of those who once inhabited it.

Ghostly Legends of the Jailer’s Inn

The Jailer’s Inn is not just a place of historical significance; it is also known for its ghostly legends. As we wandered through the building, we couldn’t help but recall the stories of the spirits said to still linger here. The most famous of these is the “Woman in White,” a spectral figure believed to roam the halls of the old jail. Visitors and staff alike have reported seeing her apparition, feeling sudden cold spots, and hearing unexplained noises in the dead of night.

③ Federal Hill – My Old Kentucky Home

After checking out of the Jailer’s Inn, we spent the remainder of our morning exploring Bardstown’s rich history. We began with a short visit to Federal Hill, also known as My Old Kentucky Home. This iconic mansion, intimately tied to Stephen Foster’s renowned song, offers a deep dive into the lives of the Rowan family, one of Kentucky’s most influential households. The tour took us through several rooms filled with historical artifacts, with a particularly poignant moment being the recounting of John Rowan Jr.’s tragic death in 1855. We also explored the estate’s grounds, which included the smokehouse, spring house cabin, and a family graveyard, providing further insights into the lives of those who lived and worked on this plantation.

④ Lunch at Mammy’s Kitchen & Bar

Address: 116 W. Stephen Foster Ave, Bardstown, KY 40004
Time Spent: 45 minutes

Growing hungry, we visited Mammy’s Kitchen & Bar, located just across the street from the Jailer’s Inn. Known for its Southern comfort food and welcoming atmosphere, Mammy’s offered us a refreshing lunch of chicken salad and freshly made pimento cheese—just the break we needed as we prepared to visit more of Bardstown’s historic sites.

⑤ Civil War Museum of the Western Theater

Address: 310 E. Broadway St, Bardstown, KY 40004
Time Spent: 1.5 hours

Re-energized from our lunch, we visited the Civil War Museum of the Western Theater. This museum delves into the Western Theater of the Civil War, which refers to the region encompassing the area west of the Appalachian Mountains, including states like Kentucky, Tennessee, and Georgia. The museum is a treasure trove of artifacts, offering a comprehensive look at the war’s impact on this crucial region. Exhibits range from uniforms and weapons to personal letters and photographs, each telling the stories of those who lived through this tumultuous period. The attention to detail and the breadth of the collection make this museum a must-see for any history enthusiast.

Adjacent to the museum is the Colonial Village, a collection of reconstructed buildings that offer a glimpse into life during the early days of American settlement. We explored the Overall House, originally built by Revolutionary War soldiers John and William Overall, along with Captain Beans Tavern and the Candle Makers and Broom Makers’ Shop. Despite the fascinating history behind these buildings, the village itself felt somewhat underdeveloped, but it still added a rustic charm to our visit.

⑥ The Oscar Getz Museum of Bourbon History

Address: 114 N 5th St, Bardstown, KY 40004
Time Spent: 1 hour

Finally, we visited the Oscar Getz Museum of Bourbon History, housed in Spalding Hall. Thanks to an endowment left by Oscar Getz, the museum offers free entry to the public and is a well-curated gem. The exhibits include everything from vintage whiskey bottles to an authentic Prohibition-era speakeasy. The museum provides an in-depth look at the history of whiskey in America, particularly Kentucky bourbon—a fitting end to our Bardstown visit.

All in all, Bardstown is a great place to visit, even if you aren’t the least bit interested in Bourbon.

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☑ Who Is This Tour Best For?

• History Buffs: Civil War stories, bourbon heritage, and a stay in an old jail.
• Paranormal Enthusiasts: Haunted legends like the Woman in White.
• Cultural Travelers: Connections to Stephen Foster and Kentucky traditions.
• Food Lovers: Hot Brown at Talbott Tavern and comfort food at Mammy’s.
• Museum Fans: Civil War artifacts and bourbon history collections.

⊞ Tour Summary

• Tour Name: A Night at the Jailer’s Inn and Bardstown Discovery
• Offered By: Independent Exploration (self-guided)
• Total Duration: ~1 day
• Main Stops: Jailer’s Inn, Talbott Tavern, Jail Tour, Federal Hill, Mammy’s Kitchen, Civil War Museum, Colonial Village, Oscar Getz Museum
• Drive-By Highlights: Historic Bardstown streetscape

▣ Activity Summary

• Walking Distance: ~4,500 steps
• Terrain: Paved sidewalks, indoor exhibits, uneven stone floors in the jail
• Accessibility: Mostly accessible; historic jail and village may have limitations
• Meals Included: None included (dinner at Talbott Tavern and lunch at Mammy’s were self-paid)

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