Salesian Museum and Fort Bulnes

✘ Punta Arenas, Chile • February 16, 2025

⌖ Indigenous Heritage and Frontier History at the Strait of Magellan

Our day in Punta Arenas began with the crisp morning air and the anticipation of exploring Chile’s southernmost city. As we boarded the tour bus, Rodrigo, our lively and knowledgeable guide, greeted us warmly.

You’ve come from Ushuaia, yes? Then welcome to Chile as well!” he joked, setting the tone for an engaging and immersive journey through the region’s history, from indigenous cultures to colonial settlements and the legendary Strait of Magellan.

As we navigated through the colorful streets of Punta Arenas, Rodrigo provided a historical overview of the region, stretching back to its independence from Spain in 1810. He described how General Bernardo O’Higgins and José de San Martín fought for Chile’s liberation and how Punta Arenas eventually became a key gateway to Antarctica.

① Salesian Museum Marggiorino Borgatello

The first stop of our day was the Museo Salesiano, housed within an old Catholic mission. From the outside, the building was unassuming, but inside, it contained centuries of history—a collection curated by the Salesian priests, who documented the lives of the indigenous peoples, early European settlers, and the region’s unique natural history.

As we stepped inside, the first exhibit was a striking replica of Patagonia’s four indigenous groups:

From here, we moved into an exhibit showcasing pre-Columbian artifacts, from stone tools to early pottery, revealing the craftsmanship of these early societies. The fossilized remains of prehistoric creatures, including a giant sloth (Mylodon darwinii), hinted at a time when Patagonia was home to beasts now long extinct.

Cave of Hands: Echoes of the Past

One of the most striking exhibits was a full-scale recreation of the Cave of Hands (Cueva de las Manos), a prehistoric site known for its stenciled handprints dating back over 9,000 years. The cave replica was dimly lit, designed to mimic the original site, with its walls adorned in vibrant red, black, and white handprints—left behind by early inhabitants of Patagonia. Rodrigo explained how these handprints were created using mineral-based pigments blown through bone tubes, a practice that spanned generations.

Tragedy and Exploration

Black-and-white photographs of the last surviving Selk’nam and Yámana people stared at us from the walls, their expressions frozen in time. Rodrigo’s voice lowered as he explained how European ranchers and gold prospectors systematically hunted and enslaved the Selk’nam in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, forcing them to the brink of extinction.

The museum ended with a collection of Antarctic exploration relics, including artifacts from Ernest Shackleton’s fateful expedition and a tribute to Luis Pardo Villalón, the Chilean naval officer who braved treacherous waters to rescue Shackleton’s stranded men from Elephant Island.

⟳ The Drive to Fort Bulnes

Back on the bus, we set out along Ruta 9, winding through a rugged, wind-sculpted landscape with the Strait of Magellan stretching endlessly to our left.

Along the way, Rodrigo told us the story of Land of Fire (Tierra del Fuego), named by Ferdinand Magellan after seeing fires burning on the coastline—signals used by the native Selk’nam people to communicate. The island’s name, he explained, was not merely about warmth but also about the complex social and survival strategies of its inhabitants.

As we neared Fort Bulnes, Rodrigo shared the history of Chile’s efforts to secure control over the Strait of Magellan. In 1843, President Manuel Bulnes ordered the establishment of a settlement along the strait to prevent foreign powers from claiming the territory. A crew of 23 settlers from Chiloé, led by British-Chilean Captain John Williams, arrived and constructed Fort Bulnes, the first Chilean settlement in Patagonia.

② Strait of Magellan Park Visitor Center – Lunch

Before heading to Fort Bulnes, we stopped at the Parque del Estrecho Visitor Center for lunch. The dining area was a cozy refuge from the bus, offering a warm atmosphere with large windows overlooking the Strait of Magellan.

The meal featured a selection of traditional Chilean cuisine. We started with a seafood soup,—a perfect way to warm up after the chilly morning. The main course was Patagonian roasted lamb, cordero al palo, slow-cooked over an open flame until it was tender and smoky. It was served with pebre, a fresh Chilean salsa made of tomatoes, onions, cilantro, and a touch of spice, along with a side of roasted potatoes and vegetables.

For dessert, we enjoyed calafate berry mousse, a light and airy treat made from the small, dark berries native to Patagonia. Rodrigo reminded us of the local legend: If you eat calafate berries, you are destined to return to Patagonia.

To drink, many of us opted for pisco sours, the classic Chilean cocktail made with pisco, lime juice, sugar, and egg white, while others enjoyed a glass of Carmenère, a Chilean red wine known for its smooth, fruity flavor.

After lunch, we took a short drive to the fort entrance, where Rodrigo reminded us that this was not the original fort, but a carefully reconstructed replica. The original Fort Bulnes had been abandoned in 1848, when settlers moved north to establish Punta Arenas, a more habitable location.

③ Fort Bulnes – Chile’s First Settlement

As we entered the fort, we walked along a wooden palisade fence, which surrounded several reconstructed buildings, including the Governor’s House, officer’s quarters, a chapel, a barracks, a blacksmith shop, and a jail. The cabins, made of interlocking logs without nails, were small and dark, a stark reminder of the difficult conditions faced by the original settlers.

Rodrigo explained that fresh water was one of the biggest challenges for the early settlers. The nearest reliable water source was across the San Juan Bay, meaning they had to row against powerful winds to fetch drinking water—a near-impossible task in the region’s extreme conditions.

We explored the jail, a cramped wooden structure that once held military prisoners. Rodrigo shared the dramatic story of Cambiaso, a ruthless mutineer who took control of the fort, executed his superiors, and declared himself ruler of the settlement before being captured and executed.

After exploring the barracks and watchtower, we took a short hike to a lookout point, where we were rewarded with a stunning panoramic view of the Strait of Magellan. The waters stretched to the horizon, with Tierra del Fuego visible in the distance. Rodrigo pointed out where British explorer Thomas Cavendish once anchored, and the site of the Spanish settlement of Rey Don Felipe, also known as Port Famine, which ended in tragedy when settlers perished from starvation.

④ Sara Braun Municipal Cemetery

After spending the afternoon at Fort Bulnes, we made our way back to Punta Arenas, continuing our journey through its history and culture with several key stops.

Regarded as one of the most magnificent cemeteries in South America, the Cementerio Municipal Sara Braun felt more like an elaborate garden of stone and marble than a traditional burial ground. Covering a vast expanse, the cemetery is carefully maintained with tree-lined pathways of towering cypress trees, leading visitors through an architectural showcase of ornate mausoleums, intricate tombs, and grand family crypts. These resting places belonged to the city’s most influential early settlers, including José Nogueira, a Portuguese whaling entrepreneur, and members of the Menéndez-Brown dynasty, a powerful sheep-ranching family that shaped Patagonia’s economic landscape.

The European influence was evident in the elegant, mansion-like mausoleums, some resembling miniature palaces with intricately carved facades, iron gates, and stained-glass windows. Rodrigo explained how this cemetery reflected Punta Arenas’ history as a melting pot of immigrants, particularly from Spain, Croatia, Germany, France, and Britain, who sought their fortunes in Patagonia during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Rodrigo also shared an intriguing local legend—the story of the “Lady in White.” At an unmarked grave, visitors often leave coins or small tokens, believing that she grants wishes in return. Whether superstition or tradition, the small pile of offerings at the site suggested that many still held faith in the legend.

⑤ Hilltop Viewpoint (Mirador Cerro de la Cruz)

A short uphill drive brought us to Mirador Cerro de la Cruz, one of the most picturesque viewpoints in Punta Arenas. From this elevated vantage point, we were treated to sweeping panoramic views of the city, the Strait of Magellan, and beyond.

From here, we could see ships navigating the legendary waters, tracing the same path that explorers and merchants had followed for centuries. The city stretched below us, its rooftops painted in vibrant hues of red, blue, and yellow, creating a striking contrast against the deep blues of the sea. In the distance, we could even make out Tierra del Fuego, its rugged silhouette a reminder of the vast and untamed wilderness that lay beyond.

Rodrigo encouraged us to take in the view and reflect on the journey we had experienced so far. The city bustled below, with cars winding through the streets and people moving about their evening routines. The air, crisp and cool, carried the scent of the nearby ocean, grounding us in this remote yet historically significant place.

⑥ Magellan Square (Plaza Muñoz Gamero)

We ended the tour at Plaza Muñoz Gamero, the heart of Punta Arenas. At its center stood the Magellan Monument, erected in 1920 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the discovery of the strait. Rodrigo pointed out a curious detail—the mermaid at the base of the monument had two tails, possibly symbolizing the merging of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.

As we wandered through the square, we admired:

Before leaving, Rodrigo encouraged us to follow local tradition and rub the toe of the indigenous figure at the base of the monument, said to bring good luck and ensure a return to Patagonia.

⑦ Muelle Prat – Punta Arenas Pier

With the wind still whipping through our coats, we returned to the pier, carrying the stories of explorers, settlers, and indigenous peoples with us. Rodrigo bid us farewell, reminding us that if you rub the toe of the indigenous figure at the Magellan Monument, you’ll return to Patagonia one day.

Perhaps, one day, we will.

☑ Who Is This Tour Best For?

• History Lovers: Colonial settlements, fort life, and exploration lore.
• Cultural Explorers: Indigenous traditions and immigrant legacies.
• Nature Enthusiasts: Strait of Magellan landscapes and views of Tierra del Fuego.
• Food Lovers: Patagonian lamb, calafate berries, and Chilean wine.
• Photographers: Cemeteries, forts, and sweeping strait panoramas.
• Legend Seekers: Local myths like the Lady in White and the Magellan toe ritual.

⊞ Tour Summary

• Tour Name: Salesian Museum and Fort Bulnes
• Offered By: Princess Cruises (or local operator)
• Total Duration: 7.5 hours
• Main Stops: Salesian Museum, Visitor Center (Lunch), Fort Bulnes, Sara Braun Cemetery, Cerro de la Cruz, Plaza Muñoz Gamero, Punta Arenas Pier
• Drive-By Highlights: Strait of Magellan coastline, Punta Arenas historic district, Avenida Bulnes

▣ Activity Summary

• Walking Distance: ~5,000–6,500 steps
• Terrain: Museum floors, fort’s uneven dirt paths, cemetery cobblestones, sloped viewpoint
• Accessibility: Moderate; fort terrain uneven, cemetery paths narrow in parts
• Meals Included: Seafood soup, roasted lamb, calafate mousse, wine or pisco sour

Excursion Disclaimer: Descriptions of shore excursions on OceansAfoot reflect individual travel experiences and are not official representations of the cruise lines or tour providers mentioned. All information is based on personal participation, publicly available facts, or traveler observation.

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